Changing over the Ceramic Infrared Heating tube in you Home Infrared Sauna can be a fairly easy process when you have all the right tools and parts ready to go. In one of our previous Blog Posts HERE we discussed how to test and select the right Ceramic Tube for you sauna, and in this Blog we are going to walk you through changing the tube. The first few steps are repeated from last time, as the process is similar.
Once again it is important to make sure that you have all the tools ready to make the job go smoothly;
o Philips #2 Screwdriver
o Small Flat Screwdriver or Small Utility Knife
o Pliers or small adjustable wrench/ Shifter
o Digital Multi-meter (Optional)
Before we start make sure that you have the power disconnected from the Sauna, this is critical as I have seen the neutral/common side of the Ceramic Tube switched, while maintaining 240v potential to the other end. The best way to do this is to remove the plug from the wall and leave it resting somewhere you can see it. In the case of a hard-wired unit Isolate the power from a locally positioned Isolator/Disconnect or from the Breaker in the Board. As always safety is the most important thing, Electrical work must always be undertaken by a licensed and competent professional in your local jurisdiction.
Now to remove the cover from the Heater. Using the small flat blade screwdriver or utility knife remove the small timber caps usually covering the screws in the backrest and heater frames. Store these in a small container or other safe place for reuse. Using the #2 Philips screwdriver remove all the screws holding the frames and heater covers to the wall, again setting the screws aside in the small container. Place all the frames and covers somewhere out of the way, preferably outside of the sauna. This should now have exposed the entire ceramic heating tube allowing access for the next step.
Cover removed from over Ceramic Heating Tube
As we did in the previous Blog it is important to visually inspect the wires and lugs connected to the top and bottom of the heater tube. Occasionally the terminals can corrode and become brittle, severing from the termination point. Remove the threaded ceramic caps off both ends the Ceramic Tubes. If this looks like it is showing signs of corroding give the lugs and wires a stress test by wiggling the cable with a little force. This action should not stress out a healthy terminal but will likely break down one that is on the way out. Before moving on we want to fix this by cleaning up the cable and attaching new lugs.
Once the corrosion has been identified we need to work out how far along the cable that corrosion stretches, and how much length (in cable) we have to play with for re-lugging and reconnecting. The best way is to slowly pull the cable out towards you feeling how flexible is (more flexible is better) making sure you find a good point in the cable that will also reach the bolt on the heating tube. Keeping in mind the cables will either be running down from the top of the panels, between heaters on the wall or down to the under-bench heaters, as you don’t want to lose an end in to the wall by pulling to hard. With the cable at an optimal length you will need to strip off a small amount of the insulation to match the lug, then twist the strands together and crimp on the lug. Only bare lugs with no plastic insulation can be used, as the high temperature will damage any plastic insulation.
With the lugs replaced (where necessary) we can now move on to removing the Tube that is to be replaced (If not already done). Remove the lugged cables from each end of the tube by loosening off the outermost nut on the threaded connection. Being careful to not move the inner nut as much as possible, as this is connected to the internal filament and could cause a weakening. After removing the lugs be sure to prevent them from slipping back inside the wall panels using some method of restraint.
The tubes are usually held in place at one end by means of a sprung wire latched into place mechanically similar to a safety pin. At the other end it will most likely be simply slipped into a snug hole in the sheet metal. Undo the sprung wire, taking note of the mechanism for when you put it back together later. The tube should then simply slide out of the hole in the sheet metal.
Wire clip holding in end of Heater
Replacing the tube is the same process in reverse, with the possible need to slightly enlarge the hole in the sheet metal to accommodate a thicker aftermarket Ceramic Tube. I usually do this by putting my closed pliers in the hole till they are sung, then twist them around causing the metal to expand slightly. Do this slowly and in a few stages as it is better to have a tight fit than a loose one.
Now that the Ceramic Tube is seated and the wire clip is holding it in place reconnect the lugs to both ends of the tube, again trying to only move the outermost nut on the threaded end. Make sure the connection is firm and tight and that no part of the exposed metal ends are anywhere near the metal frame. All the ceramic end-caps should also be re-attached.
Before reinstating the covers and frames it is always a good idea to test the heaters to make sure that they are all working correctly. For this you’ll have to reconnect the sauna and run as you would normally do. Using either a Temperature Gun or the back of your hand (at a distance) check that each heater is beginning to heat up. If they are all working turn the unit back off and reinstate the covers and frames.
Luxo Lammin 3 Person Ceramic Infrared Sauna
Job should now be done, Enjoy!
If you have any further questions or can’t find your exact sized Ceramic Heater Tube in the Store please reach out to us via our Service@customsaunas.com.au email. If you would like to place an order find the Ceramic Tubes here https://infraredsaunarepairs.com.au/new-products/ceramic-heating-tubes